For Whom the TILE Tolls
I am not much of a reader myself, I confess I once thought "For Whom the Bell Tolls" was a Metallica song. Turns out, it's a book by Hemingway. Now, I knew of Hemingway, of course, but reading him? Nah. My wife, however, always reminds me, "We read this in high school!" To which I reply, "Honey, I read nothing in high school."
The Florida Keys, is hot, humid and literally at the end of the road. When you arrive, you'll find a charming blend of wild chickens strutting freely, the lively town of Key West, and the historic home of Ernest Hemingway, one of America's most celebrated authors. A visit to Hemingway's home is a must-do for any visitor to the "Key Lime Pie Capital of the World."
Built in 1851 with native limestone and thick walls, the Spanish colonial home was a wedding gift to Hemingway and his second wife, Pauline, in 1931. Despite falling into disrepair at some point, it became the backdrop for many of Hemingway's novels and witnessed his colorful life. The day we visited, despite the heat, touring the home was a delight. (Don't worry, I'll tell you about the resident cats later!)
The house is an unassuming delight. The colors and overall feel are charming. Stepping through the Spanish-inspired limestone entryway, terracotta walkways, and concrete patios, you're transported back in time to the home’s, now a museum, atmosphere. Imagine the scene when it was built: no paved roads, no mature trees. This grand structure, for its time, likely stood out prominently, perhaps rivaled only by the island's lighthouse, now visible across the street (but that's a story for another time.) Hemingway's love for travel is evident throughout the home's decor.
While the home lacked indoor plumbing when built, a luxurious renovation in the 1930s by Hemingway and his wife, Pauline, added it.
The Art Deco Bathroom: Step into a time capsule! This bathroom boasts a classic Art Deco style with a bold black and yellow color scheme. The floor features a captivating design with four distinct patterns, perfectly complemented by matching wall tiles. The simplicity of the design is truly striking.
The Industrial Chic Bathroom: In contrast, another bathroom showcases a more industrial aesthetic. Here, a honed granite floor, originally likely polished to a high shine, has softened over time to a beautiful matte finish. This "worn-in" look creates an interesting juxtaposition with the ornate marble countertops. The custom corner sink with its impressive 10-inch backsplashes adds a unique touch to the space. While the allure of a full restoration might be tempting, the current patina preserves a unique chapter in the home's history.
Hemingway's former writing room now sits above the bookstore. Here, amidst shelves overflowing with his stories and an array of souvenirs, my eyes landed on a large safe. A nearby sign proclaimed it has resided here since its 1935 arrival. A testament to the floor's remarkable durability, the simple yet enduring tile design has graced this space for nearly a century. Even empty, this massive safe on steel wheels must weigh a ton! I can only imagine the immense point load it exerts on the tiles below. One wonders what stories this ceramic floor has silently absorbed over the years.
Descending to the former coach area, the restroom boasts a stunningly beautiful mosaic. Its timeless design transcends trends, a testament to the artistry that once graced this home. This exquisite mosaic could have been installed last week or a hundred years ago, and it would still hold its own as a popular look.
One might think the main attraction at Hemingway's historic home would be the literary legacy. But for many visitors, the true stars are the cats. Yes, the cats! Hemingway's good friend, Captain Stanley Dexter, gifted him a special feline companion named Snow White. This wasn't your average tabby – Snow White was a polydactyl cat, meaning he had extra toes, a trait prized by sailors for their superior rat-catching abilities (those extra toes come in handy!) Apparently, Snow White wasn't just a skilled hunter, but also quite the intellectual influence on Hemingway according to some.
Sadly, Snow White passed away in 1954 at the ripe old age of 18. However, his legacy lives on. Today, over 50 cats roam the property, all direct descendants of Snow White! These special felines are federally protected and will forever be a part of Hemingway's story. Rest in peace, Snowball, and purr-haps you did inspire some literary magic after all.
Ernest Hemingway, a man of undeniable character, also had a well-documented fondness for the bottle. His favorite island hangout was Sloppy Joe's, though the current establishment bearing that name isn't the same one Hemingway frequented.
Legend has it that after a particularly lively night at the bar, Hemingway decided to "borrow" the urinal. There are various accounts of the story, but one popular version claims he declared his "deposits" gave him ownership rights. Pauline, his wife, had a different vision for the fountain for the house. Hemingway's "souvenir" presented a perfect two-birds-one-stone opportunity, but Pauline wasn't amused by his prank. Undeterred, she tried to add a touch of class with some fancy tiles. While the urinal never became the desired fountain she hoped, it seems the resident cats didn't mind its unorthodox presence.
Even for a dog person like myself, there was something undeniably charming about spotting the six-toed cat descendants roaming the property. Hemingway's Key West home wasn't just a US history spot – it was a glimpse into a life filled with not just literary genius, but also a playful spirit and a stop of in Tile history. So, if you find yourself in Key West, be sure to add Hemingway's house to your itinerary. You might just learn something new about the man behind the words, and maybe even see a few furry, six-toed friends.
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